marshtide: (Default)
[personal profile] marshtide
(Weekends are fairly lost causes when it comes to the internet, because so much is going on on a logistical sort of level. So you just get one post.)


Sweden is one of those places, and I think I touched on this before, with a fairly small population concentrated in one particular part of the country. In this case the population is mostly in the South, especially around a few cities - Stockholm, Göteborg, Malmo. Stockholm is our nearest, though it's still some way away, and it's also the furthest north of those. This area (known variously as Stockholms län, Uppland, Roslagen, or by its kommun name, for varying values of actual practical application) has been described to me as one of the moderately crowded bits.

But I come from England. If you compare the local council area I grew up in to the roughly equivalent administrative area denoted by kommun, the local council area has almost twice the population of this kommun in less than half the space. The council area is a fairly sparsely populated one by UK standards. Overall, some adjustment of the way I think about space and isolation and crowdedness is needed.

In broader terms the UK is basically a crowded place; Sweden is basically a fairly sparsely populated one. So even in an area like this one can take the main road to Stockholm and hardly see a house between here and the outskirts of the city; in fact, one will hardly see anything but trees. This is partly an effect of better roads which bypass towns, but only partly. It's also just a much less busy landscape, and also a much less agricultural one; forest punctuated by occasional fields, where I grew up with fields punctuated by occasional trees. (Very occasional trees, given that home - Norfolk - is essentially drained marshland, but over the whole of the UK forests are really limited in size.) Further south there are more fields because more crops can be grown, and further north there are even more trees, but all the same: Uppland has a very different tree-to-person ratio than I'm used to, and I kind of like it.


What this part of Sweden does have in common with my part of Norfolk is that they're both coastal tourist destinations (largely domestic tourism), with a significantly bigger population in summer than in winter. In the UK people have holiday cottages in little villages, including the one I grew up in (in which I think maybe only two or three of the older & prettier houses are still lived in as first homes); there is some kind of little country cottage ideal, but it's not so much about being completely isolated as being in a smaller village with a (perceived or potential) slower pace of life. Of course, if you actually do want to be moderately alone in the UK you probably need to move to the Hebrides. (For example.)

Here, because there's more space, people are able to go a bit more all-out a bit more easily. Summer houses are common, because quite a lot of people apparently have the sort of mid-range income needed to afford one*, but I gather one doesn't really have them in a settlement if one can help it, if one is going to go with the stereotype of the Swedish Dream Home. The middle of the forest is good, and a tiny island is best if you can find one - the Stockholm archipelago runs past here, so there are a lot of islands, of varying size and accessibility. (Once you have acquired your isolated wooden house, make sure it is painted the correct shade of red. Then you're good to go.)

Much of Sweden seems to take the summer off - the local library, for example, is currently rushing to get modernisation work completed before the contractors take off on their holidays for a couple of months, and the summer holidays are also really long, with holidays at other times of year being shorter than in the UK, I guess so that one can get the most out of the warmth & light - and a lot of people do spend that time in summer homes, with this area being a pretty popular one for that sort of thing. Of course, so many people now have summer houses in this area in their quest for being left well alone that the area gets really crowded (Swedish definition, but edging back towards UK definition) in summer.

In short, this is an awful lot like the relationship between London and North Norfolk, but more so - partly because there just aren't as many coastal areas within a few hours' drive of Stockholm as there are near London. There's also possibly something to do with the way part of the Swedish population seems to feel about islands - maybe that it's a way of being (feeling) more alone, separating yourself from other people; I haven't quite figured out what's going on with that one yet, but I guess there's something romantic about the idea, from a certain perspective. All the same, even if one wanted to it'd be impractical to live all year 'round on an island for anyone working in Stockholm - from even the biggest and most landward islands in this area, which have ferries or bridges, it can take three or more hours to get there, depending on how you're connected to the mainland, so. Summer homes.

And that said, of course, here and the Norfolk coast are both places which people mostly come to in order to do the same things - be outdoors while the weather is good, sail, walk. They're both otherwise looked on as sort of dead-end places; small boring towns and possibly frequent jokes about inbreeding, not that many jobs except in the tourist industry and generally not much happening.

But pretty in summer.




* We'll maybe talk another time about the not-too-much-not-too-little thing that I've heard people talk about in relation to Sweden (lagom?), but basically, I'm told that the gap between rich and poor is a lot smaller than in the UK, and most people aren't at either extreme.

Date: 2010-05-11 11:04 am (UTC)
cimorene: cartoony drawing of a woman's head in profile giving dubious side-eye (Default)
From: [personal profile] cimorene
Lagom has always struck me as a sort of Goldilocks concept. I mean, it encompasses moderation as I understand it, but also "Just right!"

It's funny to me looking through your journal just now (you may have expected that when you followed me!) because it's almost like a skewed window back in time - since I immigrated to Finland like six years ago now, and Finland and Sweden have a lot in common, but are not quite the same, etc. My intensive Swedish-learning period was several years ago, but I also dove in via first Kent lyrics (I translated all the albums through Hjärta och Smärta, quite gradually and with varying degrees of labor involved, and many of my favorite B-sides) and then some children's books. It's fascinating but also a little unsettling!

While you're studying language, I highly recommend you take some courses - perhaps aimed at immigrants or exchange students? - in culture and cultural history of Sweden and the Nordic lands. It helps a great deal to look formally at these things while you're in the process of picking them up by osmosis, or at least, it did for me. I took "Swedish-Speaking Finns as a Minority" and "Gender and Sexuality in the Nordic Countries", both from the Sociology department, during my first few years here, followed by "Verbal Folklore" and some Etnologi course on the cultural history of the area taught by a Danish man with a near-incomprehensible accent. I had a lot of "A-ha!" moments.

Date: 2010-05-11 06:29 pm (UTC)
cimorene: cartoony drawing of a woman's head in profile giving dubious side-eye (calligraphy)
From: [personal profile] cimorene
Oh, dear, I quite had the impression that you were in Uppsala from something-or-other I read there. How unfortunate living in the middle of nowhere! Some of my wife's cousins grew up in Uppsala and I think it's where [personal profile] northern lives; I'm kind of dying to go there - their cathedral is very old, even older than ours in Åbo, the oldest part of which dates from the 1200s I believe. I was lucky to land in Åbo, or rather lucky that [personal profile] waxjism considers it her home city and was happy to move back here (the only Swedish-language university in the country). Especially since Finnish immigration law is a bit less progressive on gay life partners, and I had to get a student residence permit so we could fulfill the mandatory 3 years' cohabitation before I was eligible for a family-member one.

I'm familiar with Jansson's picture books through the children in the family (three nieces, two nephews) and the passionately possessive/patriotic feelings for her of the Swedish-speaking Finns - and from osmosis through her cultural omnipresence; there's a 5' stuffed Moominpappa on the baggage trolley in Åbo's airport! - but most of my practice reading was with Emil i Lönneberga and Pippi Långstrump.

Date: 2010-05-12 06:02 pm (UTC)
cimorene: cartoony drawing of a woman's head in profile giving dubious side-eye (Default)
From: [personal profile] cimorene
I didn't realize Uppsala was actually south of here! Your weather must be almost identical to ours.

I haven't read the Lindgrens for older readers, but a single chapter of Pippi or Emil is a good size, but maybe still several degrees more demanding than a picture book.

Weirdly, Finland has registered partnership and gives gay (unregistered) cohabitants the same legal rights as straight ones (all the social welfare you'd get for being married). But the social benefits don't accrue for any cohabiting relationship until you've been living together for 3 years, and gay people, unlike straight ones, aren't allowed to skip them by getting married straight off (or getting a registered partnership either).

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